Prince Edward Island



Victoria Row-Globe far end 

Charlottetown was something of a disappointment to us.  I think from all the hoopla we have heard and after watching Regis and Kelly on their recent visit there, we were expecting too much.  (But we must also remember that we had just completed two and a half weeks of great sightseeing, including the Cape Breton Highlands, and we loved Halifax.)   Charlottetown was nice, but their waterfront left a lot to be desired, and Victoria Row was neat, but was only one-half block long.  (We also have to remember that we visited when the cruise ships were in port, so the stores, boutiques, and restaurants were crowded with lots of “older” tourists.)  However, their restaurants were VERY GOOD!  All had varied seafood and the required “PEI” mussels and some advertised great steaks, but, always, the wait staff was friendly and knowledgeable and ready to chat us up.  We had been informed of a little restaurant that specialized in mussels (Flex Mussels), but, alas, they had closed in 2009.  But we found the “Globe World Flavours” restaurant instead.  Just so happens that the chef and our waitress were former employees of Flex Mussels, and we only missed 10 of their 17 different mussel preparations!  Yes, after meandering through the streets of Charlottetown and reading several menus, we picked The Globe, because they offered seven different ways to serve the PEI mussel.  And, they had a sign out front that intrigued us –

“2 – 4 – 1”

Lo-and-behold, it meant 2 pounds for the price of one (imagine that!).  And, not only was the price fantastic, but then they told us that we didn’t have to have both pounds prepared the same way.  Soooo, Vicki ordered:

      Classic Island Mussels - An Island favourite, white wine simmered in garlic butter

                                                            And

      Canadian - wild mushrooms, double smoked bacon, garlic, cream

And I ordered:

      Bangkok - Coconut curry over freshly cultivated Island Mussels

And

      Mayan - chipotle adobo and chorizo

Then, while we were waiting and enjoying our wine, we (?) looked at the menu again and, not wanting the chef to feel at all slighted that we didn’t order the other varieties of mussels, we ordered another two pounds.
      Calcutta - Indian curry, mango puree, garlic, cinnamon, star anise, white wine

                                                            And

      Ireland - Guinness beer, bacon, caramelized onions, sauerkraut
The only type we didn’t order was the Italian - tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, fresh basil, but we will definitely try to cook them ourselves when we get home.  I was extremely full when we were finished, (sure), but Vicki was disappointed that I hadn’t let her try the Italian.  Enough-is -Enough!! . (decision was made strictly because I wasn’t wearing stretch pants!)  After our grazing session, we sat and enjoyed a jazz group that had been setting up while we were eating – just so happens that the Charlottetown Jazz Festival was going on that weekend.  What a great meal and superbly entertained as well.

When we left downtown Charlottetown it was still drizzling so we drove around and up and down the streets, exploring.  We found a very nice waterfront park – Victoria Park - with a 4 man skull and a sailboat in the bay.  We took a long walk and found next door to the park the Government House of Prince Edward Island.  A beautiful old white home built in 1834 in the Georgian design and known as Fanningbank, it is the home of the Lt. Governor of Prince Edward Island.  Other than the immediate downtown and Victoria Park we found Charlottetown to be no different than most other small cities. 

The next day in PEI, we drove to the north end or “up west” as they say on the island.  Amazingly red shore cliffs and lots of wind, and guess what we found?  Wind Turbines.  And, just like at home they are very controversial.  More small coastal villages pop up as we’re driving along which are home to a myriad of lobster boats and fishermen.  Also in the North end is Summerside which boasted interesting cottages, but when you arrive, there is nothing to direct you to their location.  Missed them!  Then to the Red Sands Shore. 

You’ll notice that I have defined the landscape twice as being red.  And that’s not the half of it.  The dirt in PEI is the reddest clay that I have ever seen, and in fact they market and sell t-shirts, hats, kerchiefs, etc. in the “PEI MUD” store - Seems that the clay acts as a very distinctive dye.  (We also traveled to the Points East region and one of the locals was kidding us that their washing machines were specially made for the red mud, but wouldn’t touch the “nasty old black stuff found in the other provinces”!) 

The Red Sands region boasts red sand beaches, jutting red cliffs rising from the beaches, and many a red dirt road leaving the main road and disappearing either over the rolling hills or around a bend in the woods.  PEI is noted not only for their mussels, but also for their potatoes.  Two massive companies have the market locked up and a huge proportion of the tillable land grows potatoes.  One of the companies is McCain (yes, you’ve heard of it, but no, it’s not the senator) and the other company is Cavendish, who supplies Burger King.  All over the island huge processing plants will be found, but this region has the most and the largest.  They also say that they have downhill skiing here, but the PEI hills would be more like the bunny hills found in western NY. 

This region is also the home of the Confederation Bridge, one of the longest bridges in the world at 13 kilometers (7.8 miles), and also the cheapest way to get off the island. (Remember?  By $20) Heading east on this coastal route brings us back to Cornwall (our PEI headquarters), and we head into Charlottetown for another memorable dinner at Gladdagh Oyster House.   After a dozen oysters on the half shell, a shared beet and apple salad, two wonderful entrées, and a huge serving of bread pudding with warm butterscotch sauce and whipped cream, we waddle out of the restaurant and walk to the car (we do need some exercise).  Tomorrow we head up to and around the Green Gables shore.

The Green Gables shore drive is probably one of the prettiest on PEI.  Amazingly, the beaches here are white sand, but more impressive than the beaches, are the drifting white sand dunes.  These dunes, from the road side, look like small hills, slightly sloping up to the top and inter-planted with sparse Marram grass tufts and wild rose bushes. 

But, on the beach side they dramatically drop off all the way to the beach, and are forever changing from the wind and surf.  The dunes, protected from winter people erosion with boundary fences, stretch for miles (or kilometers if you will), up and down the beach in the PEI National Park of Canada.  A walk along the water, blue skies above and a slight breeze, it really doesn’t get much better than this.  Beautiful day.  

One of the drawbacks (although some may not find it as such)  of traveling at this time of year, is that many of the small artisan’s shops along the roads were closed, but finally, at Brackley Beach, we run into The Dunes Studio Gallery and Café.  If and when you travel to PEI, you must make this one of your stops.  The Dunes consists of 1) a gallery featuring an extraordinary collection of Canadian craft including woodworking, jewelry, textiles, blown and stained glass, painting and art work, cook books, etc; 2) a working pottery studio; 3) a clothing boutique;

4) beautiful gardens with water features and water gardens, numerous statuary pieces from around the world, hidden patios and walkways, outdoor “rooms”, and numerous flower and herb gardens (really great); and 5) an award winning dining room (what else did you expect after our track record of late?).  We spent close to 4 hours browsing (and buying), strolling through the gardens, and eating a spectacular lunch.  (Al, you didn’t steer us wrong here; I just wish you would have told me not to bring my credit card!!)  Here we go again.  We started lunch with two cups (a cup is an understatement) of the Mediterranean Fish Chowder (a combination of Maritime mussels, salmon and scallops in a rich tomato basil broth and garnished with rouille), followed by the The Grazer’s Plate (local chorizo sausage, red lentil hummus, artisanal Canadian cheese, spicy Kalamata olives, pickled egg, roasted almonds and blueberry citrus conserve. Served with a selection of breads. The perfect appetizer for 2!!), and ending with, hands down, the BEST bread pudding that both Vicki and I have ever eaten.  Extremely moist, with a blueberry compote folded and baked in, a warm butterscotch sauce and homemade vanilla ice cream.  I wanted seconds and thirds and I even asked for the recipe, but was told “fat chance”.    While we were waiting for a table and, as we were leaving, people had come in to make their last dinner reservation for the season, as the restaurant was closing in a few days.  A highly popular spot.  I will state again, this is a must see if ever in PEI. 



Lucy Maud Montgomery birthplace



Guess what this is - want a hint?
 what color are the gables?



Further up the road we visit the town of Cavendish, where the original house that inspired the “Anne of Green Gables” books by Lucy Maud Montgomery still exists.  Although familiar with the story/background,  neither Vicki nor I have ever read any of these books,  but this was a mandatory stop nevertheless.  The property is immaculately maintained by the Parks Department, and comes with the requisite interpretive center and gift shop.  We also saw the home in which Ms. Montgomery grew up in and found it a lovely area in general.   We again get back on the road to Cornwall, but, surprisingly, we’re still too full for dinner.  Tomorrow we venture to the far east end of the island. 

We’re up early (some habits you just can’t shake) and on our way.  Driving in PEI is different.  If you want to take the direct route, most destinations are no further away that 45 minutes to an hour from Charlottetown, but if you’re sightseeing a full 5-6 hour day is necessary.  Today we again drive through beautiful countryside with its spic-and-span homes, come across more potato farms, and view the ever-present red clay.  We learn from the locals that a heavy winter with lots of snow is expected because the wasp nests are large and high-up off the ground.  We visit two distilleries – one producing potato vodka, and the other several varieties of “shine”.  Neither impressed us too much.  We get lost once more (but lost on holiday is adventurous), and we head back to Charlottetown for a quick supper.  We ate at the Gahan House Pub and Brewery; another very good meal, but I won’t bore your with the details.  It seems that I spent most of my prose in PEI explaining our food experiences, and no, I don’t take these experiences lightly (PUN).

But for the most part, what Vicki and I really noticed about PEI, was not any stand-out vistas or multitudes of quaint little towns, but the sheer tranquility of the island.  Everywhere we went the views were pastoral, the country homes and their grounds clean and tidy, and the people friendly, outgoing, and laid back.  Prince Edward Island to us, was very picturesque.



2nd ship is behind this one



The next day is a down day, as we are leaving tomorrow; nothing planned except itemizing for customs all of our purchases.  (I have searched the web and have found too many contradicting sites defining duty-free.)  That done, we head into Charlottetown, and find two cruise ships at anchor.  The town is bustling.  Take note that these cruise ships bring to these Maritime ports, 2/3,000 people each trip, some even more. We stop at one of only two Starbucks in the Maritimes and enjoy lattes – we relax.  Walking back to the car we slip into a shop for one more memento, and when we’re at the checkout counter are asked if we’re from the ships.  We honestly say no and lose the discount afforded to cruise passengers. Not much, but it pi--ed us off.  These little towns really cater to the cruise ships – lots of income.  We head back to Cornwall, read our books – actually we fell asleep, and leave at 4 for our last supper. 

The New Glasgow Lobster Supper!  Set in what looks like a church hall, the supper’s roots are actually fund raising meals for the local church.  They began at 4 times per year, then progressed to monthly, and finally weekly – the congregation loved the money, but the amount of time required was way too much.  Six couples bought out the operation, and now serve Lobster Suppers, family style, on a daily basis, and they do very well – over 120 people (including one bus tour) on a Thursday night at the end of September.  You have a choice of 1 or 1.5# lobster, scallops, haddock, shrimp, or salmon and the price begins at $34.95.  You are seated in a large open room (very church hall feeling) with tables spread all around, and are immediately brought water and iced tea, and a large basket of homemade yeast rolls.  Looking around at your neighbors, you immediately strike up a conversation – we’re from New York, they’re from London, Ontario; the other table is a group from the University of PEI.  Then we are interrupted by our waitress with the question, “Do you want chowder, and how many mussels do you want?”  “Of course and, the most we can get.” we answer. Out come our cups of chowder and 2 pounds of mussels.

We plow through this course, and are then asked, “Do you want more chowder or mussels?”  “No, and of course!” are our answers.  As many times as you want!!!  Then come the salads – coleslaw, potato and tossed salad.  After we finish the salad and our second 2 pounds of mussels [What? Seafood isn’t fattening!], the lobster comes out.  Yes, we were cheap, we only opted for the 1 pounder, but after the 4 pounds of mussels we were also glad for our choice.  The lobster was already split and cleaned and it went quickly. 




Vicki didn't tell me to wait for a picture!

 

Finally, sitting very full and content, we are asked, “Pie?”  Vicki had a 5 inch tall piece of lemon meringue and I had raisin, a-la-mode, and coffee, and both pies were home made.  Seeing we were finished, our waitress came back and asked, “More?”  Vicki and I both said no, but I have my doubts on Vicki’s sincerity!  (Topher, you would love this place!!) The New Glasgow Lobster Supper is another must do if in PEI.  Oh yes, while there, a film crew from the Canadian Food Network was filming an episode of “You Have To Eat Here!”  They interviewed, filmed, cajoled with all of us and guess what?  You guessed it, we’re going to be on their Canadian Food Show!   What a hoot we had and, a great “home cooked” lobster dinner to boot!   Eventually we had to leave, and yet another pretty drive and sunset to accompany us on our way back to our bed and breakfast for the evening.  All-in-all PEI was a very nice place to end our vacation.  

Alas, our journey is almost at an end.  We leave for home tomorrow morning, and our feelings are bitter-sweet; sorry that we have to end our fantastic holiday, but ready to be home again.  I have a pre-surgery appointment on Monday 10/4, and there are plenty of things that need to be completed before my knee surgery.  We plan on going back through New Brunswick, Maine, New Hampshire, across to Vermont to see Charles, and then to Ticonderoga to see Allison and Don. (It’s awfully nice when both grown children ask us to visit them on our way home!) Allison is pouting because Charles will be the last and the first child to see us before and after our vacation.  Ahhh, sibling rivalry!!  My brother tells me he didn’t know I was so verbose, but it would have been hard to tell you about our experiences in fewer words – remember, I’m an engineer and very detailed.  Hope you’ve enjoyed our travels….it was great having you along!   Until next time, when I politely ask Vicki, "Which Way?"

 

Cape Breton Highlands and Louisbourg

Now where was I when we left off last?  OK, I remember, we were going to Fort Louisbourg tomorrow.  Easy, I can catch up.  (Sorry about some of the time lags, but with being on vacation and all, I didn't think I had a timetable!!)

We were originally going to drive around the Cape Breton Highlands National Park today (clockwise), but after checking the weather (cloudy & rainy) we decided to go to the Fortress of Fort Louisbourg National Historic Site instead.  Also, some of our fellow house guests (the Irish couple Vicki wrote about) told us that the Fort was really worth visiting.  

This is the town, not the Fort



About a 90 minute drive (no metric conversions to worry about when dealing with time) from St. Ann’s, and on the far side of the Island, near Sydney, we ran into sun and the Fort.  We drove to the guard’s gate and are told to park in Lot 1.  And after first passing Lots 5-2, we are again glad that this is September, and the kids are back in school.  We first go to the Visitor’s Center, and can’t see the Fort when arriving; we pay our entry fee, and quickly exit the building to the bus that will take us to the Fort.  Through the woods, and then out into the open and across a rubble causeway, and there it is.  Not a Fort, but a FORTRESS!

Current reconstructed area is only
about one fifth of original site!

The largest reconstructed 18th-century French fortified town in North America, it was really amazing.  Louisbourg was originally founded in 1713 by the French as a fishing outpost in the America’s.  Remember that the French were Catholics and they ate a lot of fish that needed to be provided.  Well, not only did Louisbourg provide for their own population with fish, but they smoked and salted and shipped fish back to France.  Developed over several decades, by 1744 Louisbourg was a thriving seaport and capital of Île Royale (Cape Breton Island).

The Fortress of Louisbourg was one of the busiest harbours in North America and one of France's key centres of trade and military strength in the New World.  Then came the war between France and Britain, mostly fought in Europe, but the threat of British invasion during this turbulent time of empire-building, Louisbourg was continually fortified, and besieged twice before finally being destroyed in the 1760s.  Both sieges by the British came from the land side of the Fortress, but the French didn’t seem to believe that any successful attack would be launched that way and they put all of their effort in defending the approaches by water (even to the point of leaving all their cannons in place where the landside defenses would have been).  Well, the British landed about 6 miles down the coast, marched and dragged their army and artillery through the back-country, and made two successful attacks on the French by turning the French cannons around and using them against the French.  Finally the British ordered the Fortress dismantled and destroyed, and that is the way it remained until the 1940’s when archaeologists began to reconstruct the fortress as it was in the 18th century.

In the 1960’s a concerted effort was begun and it took 12 years to reconstruct what is currently standing, which is only about a fifth the size of the original Fortress.  We started off with a 75 minute introduction tour which ended up being close to 2 hours.  The guide was very well informed, and a native of the town of Louisbourg with roots back to a French sergeant who decided to stay after the British took control.  After the tour, we wandered around the grounds and buildings. 

 There were interpreters in many of the buildings in period costume who were ready to answer all questions as they would have been answered in the 1750s.  There were also cutaways in some of the buildings showing how the buildings were constructed from the foundation up, including doors, windows, wall coverings, and stairs. I was amazed at how much detail there was in the 1700’s, and except for the types of tools used to fabricate the different parts, the basic designs and building methods were the same.  Both Vicki and I thoroughly enjoyed our time in the Fortress, and also gained even more insight into the Maritime Provinces’ history.

 Now back to the west side of the island and Port Hood for tomorrow’s trip up to and around the Cape Breton Highlands National Park (clockwise), and then back to Whycocomaugh on the Bras D’Or Lake.  We wake up to a cloudy morning, and are a little bummed out, but, like many of the mornings so far, by 10am the sun is out and the day is looking to be beautiful.  I will warn you now, I won’t be writing a great deal about today – not because it isn’t worthy, but because I probably am not worthy to express in writing the sheer magnitude of the beauty that we saw.  We started by back tracking the route of two days ago – Port Hood (on the coast), Mabou (inland),Inverness (back on the coast), 

Road signs are in English & Gaelic
in this Scottish region of the Cape

 and then through the Margaree Valley and several of the Margaree towns – South West Margaree, Margaree Centre, Margaree Forks, North East Margaree, Margaree, and Margaree Harbor – Margaree must have been something (no history here, I was afraid to look her up).  However, the Margaree River is world famous for it’s Atlantic Salmon fly fishing and that while we were in the Valley and in one of the towns (none of which were bigger than our own West Bloomfield) we discovered a cutting board factory using Larch wood.  [Larch (Larix) is one of only six deciduous (lose their leaves – like maples, elms, oaks), coniferous (cone bearing with needles or flat scales – like spruce, pines, firs) trees in the world.]  Well, it just so happens that Larch wood is noted for its rot resistance, strength and ability to neutralize bacteria which gives it all of the characteristics to produce a superior cutting surface.  Plus, it’s grain pattern and natural coloring make it a beautiful as well as practical cutting board.  The manufacturing process was pretty straight forward and pretty much like any other end-grain visible, glued-up butcher block, but the finished product was really something. 

Road signs are in English & French
 in this Acadian region of the Cape

We're back in the car and, finally, back on the coast and we go through Point Cross and Cheticamp, and are beginning to see what we have been told we will see.  But not until we enter the Park proper, do we really see the beauty.  Lush highlands, sheer cliffs, and blue, blue water; beautifully green and lush valleys and breathtaking coastal vistas – all visible by turning only 90 degrees while standing in the same spot. 

 The Cape Breton Plateau is part of the worn down Appalachian mountain chain which stretches from Georgia to Newfoundland consisting of steep cliffs and deep river canyons carved into a forested plateau bordering the Atlantic Ocean.  You have to see it for yourself to really appreciate it.  From Pleasant Bay to Neals Harbor is all inland across those rolling hills, deep river canyons and lush vegetation.

We stopped at Neils Harbor at the Chowder House (one of the many by the same name, but nothing else in common) and had another great meal of clam chowder, seafood chowder, and fish and chips, and great pie alamode, and sweet iced tea.  (Everywhere in Canada serves sweet iced tea, which really makes sense since sugar doesn’t desolve well in cold tea.)

 Plus, Neils Harbor is a very pictuesque and quaint fishing village. Again on the road, we pass through Ingonish and Ingonish Beach and are now out of the Park, but not without many more spectacular coastal and inland valley vistas.  It’s getting late now and we pass through St. Anns and Baddeck before we arrive in Whycocomaugh for a good nights rest.

Last night we ate at a local greasy spoon in Whycocomaugh, and I had really good fish cakes, with really good chow.  Was going to have the apple crumble but Vicki said no!  But I tried again in the morning and had a good breakfast, but Vicki said no to the apple crumble, also again.  So, with a frown on my face, we are on our way to Prince Edward Island via Pictou, Nova Scotia.  Well, the Canso Causeway was not nearly as much fun as when we went over it after Hurricane Igor.  We drove over the causeway and onto Pictou, Nova Scotia, for our ferry ride across the Northumberland Straights of the Gulf of St. Lawrence to Woods Island, Prince Edward Island (PEI).

While we were in Pictou we saw Ship Hector, the replica of a ship that brought 189 passengers from Loch Broom in the Scottish Highlands to Nova Scotia.  Three Scotts purchased 200,000 acres from the Philadelphia Land Grant Company (Ben Franklin was a shareholder), after no settlers could be recruited from any of the New England colonies.  An advertisement was posted in the Edinburgh Advertiser in 1773, and in short order the ship was full.  After a 2 and a half month voyage including a smallpox outbreak that killed 18 passengers, a storm off Newfoundland that added two weeks to the voyage, and an extreme shortage of both food and water, the ship landed September 15^th, 1773.  The settlers were promised free passage, a farm and one year of provisions (which never materialized), and in-turn, promised to work the farms for a period of 1-5 years before they would achieve full ownership.

  

Leaving Pictou to catch the ferry at nearby Caribou, I got lost.  The GPS didn’t know where we were except that we were driving somewhat parallel to the correct route.  I asked a man on the street, and his directions almost got me more lost, until Vicki saw a sign directing us to the ferry terminal.  WHEW!  We arrived at the ferry just as it was arriving from PEI, and within 20 minutes we were loading.  We grabbed a bottle of wine, cheese and crackers, fresh cookies, an apple, the computer and a couple of books and headed for the top deck where we were rewarded with window seats, nice comfortable seats and a table.  I finished writing about Mabou and didn’t write anymore for the rest of the trip.

Loading the ferry
and leaving Nova Scotia



Arriving Prince Edward Island

The ferry ride was just like the St. John to Digby ferry, except less expensive.  [We found out that you pay only when you leave PEI, and there are only two ways to get on or off the island – the ferry or the bridge.  Without knowing it, we planned our trip leaving on the cheapest route of egress, the bridge, by $20.]   Arriving in PEI – Woods Island – we exited the ferry, and drove to our next way point, Cornwall, just outside of Charlottetown.   We’re tired, and go to bed early, with breakfast scheduled for 8am.