Prince Edward Island



Victoria Row-Globe far end 

Charlottetown was something of a disappointment to us.  I think from all the hoopla we have heard and after watching Regis and Kelly on their recent visit there, we were expecting too much.  (But we must also remember that we had just completed two and a half weeks of great sightseeing, including the Cape Breton Highlands, and we loved Halifax.)   Charlottetown was nice, but their waterfront left a lot to be desired, and Victoria Row was neat, but was only one-half block long.  (We also have to remember that we visited when the cruise ships were in port, so the stores, boutiques, and restaurants were crowded with lots of “older” tourists.)  However, their restaurants were VERY GOOD!  All had varied seafood and the required “PEI” mussels and some advertised great steaks, but, always, the wait staff was friendly and knowledgeable and ready to chat us up.  We had been informed of a little restaurant that specialized in mussels (Flex Mussels), but, alas, they had closed in 2009.  But we found the “Globe World Flavours” restaurant instead.  Just so happens that the chef and our waitress were former employees of Flex Mussels, and we only missed 10 of their 17 different mussel preparations!  Yes, after meandering through the streets of Charlottetown and reading several menus, we picked The Globe, because they offered seven different ways to serve the PEI mussel.  And, they had a sign out front that intrigued us –

“2 – 4 – 1”

Lo-and-behold, it meant 2 pounds for the price of one (imagine that!).  And, not only was the price fantastic, but then they told us that we didn’t have to have both pounds prepared the same way.  Soooo, Vicki ordered:

      Classic Island Mussels - An Island favourite, white wine simmered in garlic butter

                                                            And

      Canadian - wild mushrooms, double smoked bacon, garlic, cream

And I ordered:

      Bangkok - Coconut curry over freshly cultivated Island Mussels

And

      Mayan - chipotle adobo and chorizo

Then, while we were waiting and enjoying our wine, we (?) looked at the menu again and, not wanting the chef to feel at all slighted that we didn’t order the other varieties of mussels, we ordered another two pounds.
      Calcutta - Indian curry, mango puree, garlic, cinnamon, star anise, white wine

                                                            And

      Ireland - Guinness beer, bacon, caramelized onions, sauerkraut
The only type we didn’t order was the Italian - tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, fresh basil, but we will definitely try to cook them ourselves when we get home.  I was extremely full when we were finished, (sure), but Vicki was disappointed that I hadn’t let her try the Italian.  Enough-is -Enough!! . (decision was made strictly because I wasn’t wearing stretch pants!)  After our grazing session, we sat and enjoyed a jazz group that had been setting up while we were eating – just so happens that the Charlottetown Jazz Festival was going on that weekend.  What a great meal and superbly entertained as well.

When we left downtown Charlottetown it was still drizzling so we drove around and up and down the streets, exploring.  We found a very nice waterfront park – Victoria Park - with a 4 man skull and a sailboat in the bay.  We took a long walk and found next door to the park the Government House of Prince Edward Island.  A beautiful old white home built in 1834 in the Georgian design and known as Fanningbank, it is the home of the Lt. Governor of Prince Edward Island.  Other than the immediate downtown and Victoria Park we found Charlottetown to be no different than most other small cities. 

The next day in PEI, we drove to the north end or “up west” as they say on the island.  Amazingly red shore cliffs and lots of wind, and guess what we found?  Wind Turbines.  And, just like at home they are very controversial.  More small coastal villages pop up as we’re driving along which are home to a myriad of lobster boats and fishermen.  Also in the North end is Summerside which boasted interesting cottages, but when you arrive, there is nothing to direct you to their location.  Missed them!  Then to the Red Sands Shore. 

You’ll notice that I have defined the landscape twice as being red.  And that’s not the half of it.  The dirt in PEI is the reddest clay that I have ever seen, and in fact they market and sell t-shirts, hats, kerchiefs, etc. in the “PEI MUD” store - Seems that the clay acts as a very distinctive dye.  (We also traveled to the Points East region and one of the locals was kidding us that their washing machines were specially made for the red mud, but wouldn’t touch the “nasty old black stuff found in the other provinces”!) 

The Red Sands region boasts red sand beaches, jutting red cliffs rising from the beaches, and many a red dirt road leaving the main road and disappearing either over the rolling hills or around a bend in the woods.  PEI is noted not only for their mussels, but also for their potatoes.  Two massive companies have the market locked up and a huge proportion of the tillable land grows potatoes.  One of the companies is McCain (yes, you’ve heard of it, but no, it’s not the senator) and the other company is Cavendish, who supplies Burger King.  All over the island huge processing plants will be found, but this region has the most and the largest.  They also say that they have downhill skiing here, but the PEI hills would be more like the bunny hills found in western NY. 

This region is also the home of the Confederation Bridge, one of the longest bridges in the world at 13 kilometers (7.8 miles), and also the cheapest way to get off the island. (Remember?  By $20) Heading east on this coastal route brings us back to Cornwall (our PEI headquarters), and we head into Charlottetown for another memorable dinner at Gladdagh Oyster House.   After a dozen oysters on the half shell, a shared beet and apple salad, two wonderful entrées, and a huge serving of bread pudding with warm butterscotch sauce and whipped cream, we waddle out of the restaurant and walk to the car (we do need some exercise).  Tomorrow we head up to and around the Green Gables shore.

The Green Gables shore drive is probably one of the prettiest on PEI.  Amazingly, the beaches here are white sand, but more impressive than the beaches, are the drifting white sand dunes.  These dunes, from the road side, look like small hills, slightly sloping up to the top and inter-planted with sparse Marram grass tufts and wild rose bushes. 

But, on the beach side they dramatically drop off all the way to the beach, and are forever changing from the wind and surf.  The dunes, protected from winter people erosion with boundary fences, stretch for miles (or kilometers if you will), up and down the beach in the PEI National Park of Canada.  A walk along the water, blue skies above and a slight breeze, it really doesn’t get much better than this.  Beautiful day.  

One of the drawbacks (although some may not find it as such)  of traveling at this time of year, is that many of the small artisan’s shops along the roads were closed, but finally, at Brackley Beach, we run into The Dunes Studio Gallery and Café.  If and when you travel to PEI, you must make this one of your stops.  The Dunes consists of 1) a gallery featuring an extraordinary collection of Canadian craft including woodworking, jewelry, textiles, blown and stained glass, painting and art work, cook books, etc; 2) a working pottery studio; 3) a clothing boutique;

4) beautiful gardens with water features and water gardens, numerous statuary pieces from around the world, hidden patios and walkways, outdoor “rooms”, and numerous flower and herb gardens (really great); and 5) an award winning dining room (what else did you expect after our track record of late?).  We spent close to 4 hours browsing (and buying), strolling through the gardens, and eating a spectacular lunch.  (Al, you didn’t steer us wrong here; I just wish you would have told me not to bring my credit card!!)  Here we go again.  We started lunch with two cups (a cup is an understatement) of the Mediterranean Fish Chowder (a combination of Maritime mussels, salmon and scallops in a rich tomato basil broth and garnished with rouille), followed by the The Grazer’s Plate (local chorizo sausage, red lentil hummus, artisanal Canadian cheese, spicy Kalamata olives, pickled egg, roasted almonds and blueberry citrus conserve. Served with a selection of breads. The perfect appetizer for 2!!), and ending with, hands down, the BEST bread pudding that both Vicki and I have ever eaten.  Extremely moist, with a blueberry compote folded and baked in, a warm butterscotch sauce and homemade vanilla ice cream.  I wanted seconds and thirds and I even asked for the recipe, but was told “fat chance”.    While we were waiting for a table and, as we were leaving, people had come in to make their last dinner reservation for the season, as the restaurant was closing in a few days.  A highly popular spot.  I will state again, this is a must see if ever in PEI. 



Lucy Maud Montgomery birthplace



Guess what this is - want a hint?
 what color are the gables?



Further up the road we visit the town of Cavendish, where the original house that inspired the “Anne of Green Gables” books by Lucy Maud Montgomery still exists.  Although familiar with the story/background,  neither Vicki nor I have ever read any of these books,  but this was a mandatory stop nevertheless.  The property is immaculately maintained by the Parks Department, and comes with the requisite interpretive center and gift shop.  We also saw the home in which Ms. Montgomery grew up in and found it a lovely area in general.   We again get back on the road to Cornwall, but, surprisingly, we’re still too full for dinner.  Tomorrow we venture to the far east end of the island. 

We’re up early (some habits you just can’t shake) and on our way.  Driving in PEI is different.  If you want to take the direct route, most destinations are no further away that 45 minutes to an hour from Charlottetown, but if you’re sightseeing a full 5-6 hour day is necessary.  Today we again drive through beautiful countryside with its spic-and-span homes, come across more potato farms, and view the ever-present red clay.  We learn from the locals that a heavy winter with lots of snow is expected because the wasp nests are large and high-up off the ground.  We visit two distilleries – one producing potato vodka, and the other several varieties of “shine”.  Neither impressed us too much.  We get lost once more (but lost on holiday is adventurous), and we head back to Charlottetown for a quick supper.  We ate at the Gahan House Pub and Brewery; another very good meal, but I won’t bore your with the details.  It seems that I spent most of my prose in PEI explaining our food experiences, and no, I don’t take these experiences lightly (PUN).

But for the most part, what Vicki and I really noticed about PEI, was not any stand-out vistas or multitudes of quaint little towns, but the sheer tranquility of the island.  Everywhere we went the views were pastoral, the country homes and their grounds clean and tidy, and the people friendly, outgoing, and laid back.  Prince Edward Island to us, was very picturesque.



2nd ship is behind this one



The next day is a down day, as we are leaving tomorrow; nothing planned except itemizing for customs all of our purchases.  (I have searched the web and have found too many contradicting sites defining duty-free.)  That done, we head into Charlottetown, and find two cruise ships at anchor.  The town is bustling.  Take note that these cruise ships bring to these Maritime ports, 2/3,000 people each trip, some even more. We stop at one of only two Starbucks in the Maritimes and enjoy lattes – we relax.  Walking back to the car we slip into a shop for one more memento, and when we’re at the checkout counter are asked if we’re from the ships.  We honestly say no and lose the discount afforded to cruise passengers. Not much, but it pi--ed us off.  These little towns really cater to the cruise ships – lots of income.  We head back to Cornwall, read our books – actually we fell asleep, and leave at 4 for our last supper. 

The New Glasgow Lobster Supper!  Set in what looks like a church hall, the supper’s roots are actually fund raising meals for the local church.  They began at 4 times per year, then progressed to monthly, and finally weekly – the congregation loved the money, but the amount of time required was way too much.  Six couples bought out the operation, and now serve Lobster Suppers, family style, on a daily basis, and they do very well – over 120 people (including one bus tour) on a Thursday night at the end of September.  You have a choice of 1 or 1.5# lobster, scallops, haddock, shrimp, or salmon and the price begins at $34.95.  You are seated in a large open room (very church hall feeling) with tables spread all around, and are immediately brought water and iced tea, and a large basket of homemade yeast rolls.  Looking around at your neighbors, you immediately strike up a conversation – we’re from New York, they’re from London, Ontario; the other table is a group from the University of PEI.  Then we are interrupted by our waitress with the question, “Do you want chowder, and how many mussels do you want?”  “Of course and, the most we can get.” we answer. Out come our cups of chowder and 2 pounds of mussels.

We plow through this course, and are then asked, “Do you want more chowder or mussels?”  “No, and of course!” are our answers.  As many times as you want!!!  Then come the salads – coleslaw, potato and tossed salad.  After we finish the salad and our second 2 pounds of mussels [What? Seafood isn’t fattening!], the lobster comes out.  Yes, we were cheap, we only opted for the 1 pounder, but after the 4 pounds of mussels we were also glad for our choice.  The lobster was already split and cleaned and it went quickly. 




Vicki didn't tell me to wait for a picture!

 

Finally, sitting very full and content, we are asked, “Pie?”  Vicki had a 5 inch tall piece of lemon meringue and I had raisin, a-la-mode, and coffee, and both pies were home made.  Seeing we were finished, our waitress came back and asked, “More?”  Vicki and I both said no, but I have my doubts on Vicki’s sincerity!  (Topher, you would love this place!!) The New Glasgow Lobster Supper is another must do if in PEI.  Oh yes, while there, a film crew from the Canadian Food Network was filming an episode of “You Have To Eat Here!”  They interviewed, filmed, cajoled with all of us and guess what?  You guessed it, we’re going to be on their Canadian Food Show!   What a hoot we had and, a great “home cooked” lobster dinner to boot!   Eventually we had to leave, and yet another pretty drive and sunset to accompany us on our way back to our bed and breakfast for the evening.  All-in-all PEI was a very nice place to end our vacation.  

Alas, our journey is almost at an end.  We leave for home tomorrow morning, and our feelings are bitter-sweet; sorry that we have to end our fantastic holiday, but ready to be home again.  I have a pre-surgery appointment on Monday 10/4, and there are plenty of things that need to be completed before my knee surgery.  We plan on going back through New Brunswick, Maine, New Hampshire, across to Vermont to see Charles, and then to Ticonderoga to see Allison and Don. (It’s awfully nice when both grown children ask us to visit them on our way home!) Allison is pouting because Charles will be the last and the first child to see us before and after our vacation.  Ahhh, sibling rivalry!!  My brother tells me he didn’t know I was so verbose, but it would have been hard to tell you about our experiences in fewer words – remember, I’m an engineer and very detailed.  Hope you’ve enjoyed our travels….it was great having you along!   Until next time, when I politely ask Vicki, "Which Way?"