Thursday, September 23, 2010

Our next three B&B's - Peggy's Cove, Truro, Cape Breton

I've been a bit lax in my updates of our bed and breakfasts. I will try and bring you up-to-date tonight. The B&B's have each been quite unique in their own way. What they have been similar in however, is in their friendliness and especially in their cleanliness. Without an ounce of exageration, you could eat off any one, and ALL of their floors. They are absolutely spotless! That's the one thing I am extremely insistant about...I want where I sleep and eat clean and, remarkably so, they all have been. Each Innkeeper takes extreme pride in their home and as a matter of fact, each only wears slippers or socks around the house, never shoes. Last night was the first time one has actually asked us to remove our shoes as we walked in, and we were happy to do so!

Why oh why have I saved my lace and linen tablecloths for " special" ocassions? Doug and I have enjoyed our breakfasts on such beautiful cloths, sipped our orange juice via crystal goblets and eaten off of the most beautiful bone china throughout the Maritimes. If this trip has changed me in any way, it will encourage me to do an inventory of, and push me to use what I have always considered things to be enjoyed only for special ocassions. I am now beginning to learn that eveyday IS a special ocassion, so why not enjoy it today.  Well, I seemed to have veered off my path of discussion.

After leaving Digby, we drove to Peggy's Cove and stayed with two wonderful, warm and, entertaining people. Our Innkeeper, Peter, originally from Denmark, was at one time during his varied life, Bob Hope's butler! He stayed with Hope for almost five years and loved every moment of it. During this period, he helped put together Hope's 90th birthday party, met three presidents and of course, entertained celebraties, but, most importantly to Peter, he served a houseguest breakfast in bed for her two week stay with them...Sophia Loren! He said it took him almost as long to wipe the smile off his face! As you can imagine, there were countless stories, but then conversations shifted to family, background, etc., and the similarities of life soon made us realize we had a number of things in common and that we truly enjoyed each other's company. They have a lovely home with an adjoining apartment that was separated from their home by a sliding glass door. We had our own separate entrance into our part of the house with a large bedroom, sitting area as well as a lovely bath. For breakfast, we had a choice of the best blueberry, made from scratch, panacakes, meat, etc.,  an apple puff baked pancake, etc., or, eggs, homefries, etc. Everything was absolutely delicious. A fresh fruit bowl was always filled to the top awaiting our arrival...we have sooo enjoyed them along the way. Peter would always join us, coffee in hand, when he finished serving us, but at 9, he would leave us for a bit. As he explained to us our first morning with them, he always liked to start the day with points in his favor and a husband knows that sometimes it can go down hill rather quickly...so it's always smart to begin the day somewhat ahead of the game. Maia, his beautiful Swedish wife, is not a morning person, never has been, so each morning, he served her breakfast in bed! ( Doug, I'm begging, pleassse pay attention!) He rejoins us rather quickly and we continue on with our conversation. They have two children, one of whom lives in Colorado and the other is the executive chef for the Crown Prince of Bahrain, on his private yacht. Needless to say, our conversations were lively and so much fun. They have had an adventurous life and it was so kind of them to share some of their experiences with us. One example of their thoughtfulness towards their guests, each day as we left to explore, Peter would be at the door making sure we took water with us and if we hadn't, we had to go back in and get a bottle. And each evening, he and Maia would be there to greet us, ask where we had been, what we had liked and where we had eaten. One evening we enjoyed a wonderful dinner with them as well....it was a visit with two of the most charming, warm individuals we have ever met and certainly will never forget. As we were leaving, there is Peter at the door, "now you have your water with you, yes?"

From Peggy's Cove/Halifax, we're off to Truro. Our next Inn Keepers are Ann and Larry, who are originally from Toronto. They fell in love with the area, retired and moved there. As we walk into their large, open house, the smell of bread baking fills the air. Doug and I are thinking yes, this is going to work out fine. Oh by the way, Larry does all the baking..we watched him rolling out pastry, etc. Again, the choices pretty much remain the same from one B&B to another.  Everything is home made and delicious. We have found through our travels that the men are doing the cooking/baking, with the women assisting with juices, coffee, tea. (making note of this especially for my Greek relatives! The husbands will probably delete these last couple of lines unless the women get there first!) I do think the upkeep of the rooms is left to the hostess but let's face it, running an establishment like all these people do, takes two. And what amazes Doug and I, is that they seem to do it all with such ease. In each house, after they've finished serving, they always sit down with us, coffee or tea in hand and join in with the conversation. They know which restaurants to recommend, what sights to take in or not, and what the best route to wherever you're going to is, whether it be the fastest or, the slower more scenic. We met at our breakfasts in Truro a young couple from Salt Lake City, a retired architect/boat restorer/wife originally from Boston, now in Cape Cod, retired school teacher/husband from Pittsburgh and a sailor/wife from Toronto...our most "American", if you will, couples to date. Again, our room was large and very comfortable. As with every place we've visited, each ends withs hugs and good wishes. (Gus, Doug is very careful to hug the right gender!)

Our next B&B was on the east side of Cape Breton in St. Ann's, with a great couple originally from Scotland. Maria and Ron began their life together in Scotland, moved to Ontario,Canada then onto Fort Erie, Ontario, where Ron retired from John Deere. Fourteen years ago they visited Cape Breton and fell in love with the area's "Scottish Highlands" (this area has a huge Scottish population and has brought thousands of Scots, because the terrain  reminds them of their homeland). So without knowing anyone and moving strictly on heart, they settled here and started a bed and breakfast. The area's strengths for them, besides it being a reminder of Scotland, was the church and its community within a community...very, very strong here and obviously enough for them to give up family, friends and home to move here...incredible. Maria and Ron miss their children and grandchildren terribly and sometimes wonder if they should live closer to them, but then they say no, we're so happy here and we do get to see them a few times a year. Their accents are thick, but if you listen carefully, you won't miss a beat. They told us they've lived in Canada for 44 years now, but still go back to Scotland to visit. As I've told you before, our B&B's have been spotlessly clean, but none compare to Maria and Ron's house. Doug and I really didn't think it could get any cleaner, but somehow, it does here. This was the house we had to remove our shoes in, and as far as the floors went in any of the rooms, you could have powdered your nose in their shine!  Even after they had prepared breakfast for the six of us, not a dish, slip of paper, etc. was to be found on their counters.....amazing. Their house was a little doll house and their grounds like a park (the others had all been as well, but this house was just exceptional ). In this house I believe Maria ran it all, although Ron did make some outstanding hot scones, dusted with a bit of cinnamon, right out of the oven. Breakfast was served between 8-8:30 and there was no choice. There was a tray holding pitchers of orange and cranberry jucices. An area of different cereals with milk/cream. On the table was a large fruit bowl, yogurt, home made jams/jellies; Ron brought out his scones and then Maria served you a plate with a piece of crustless spinach quiche along side three slices of bacon. A basket of toasted rye and white bread came out,along with more hot scones. But the best part of breakfast were the couples surrounding the table. One being from Ontario, Canada and the other (our favorites), from Toronto, Ireland originally, and with an Irish brogue as thick as they come, topping it off with a wicked sense of humor. Bob and Allison were their their names and we so enjoyed them! The ones from Ontario were your " politically correct generation," while Bob wasn't! He was a wonderfully intelligent gentleman and helped Doug and I understand a couple of things we questioned concerning the Irish and the Scots. We said that the music we heard being played in a couple of the restaurants/pubs reminded us more of being Irish than Scottish, as it was described to us by the musicians. Bob explained in his heavy Irish brogue, looking over at Ron (a Scot), "well, that's because the Scots really WANT to be Irish!" (with a side wink to everyone!) It was a fun morning. On the serious side, Newfoundland was brought up as being on emergency status because of hurricane Igor passing by it. Then Bob started talking about how he had gone up to Newfoundland in the late 70's because of work and had been offered a lot of money to move and work there, but his wife didn't want to go, so they didn't. They said during this period in time, Newfoundland was like our Wild West....lots of gambling, drinking, etc.. It had gotten so out of control, that the companies were giving their workers only so much money to live on for a week and the rest they direct deposited and sent back home for them. It was a very interesting and thoroughly enjoyable breakfast. After what has now become the norm , hugs and good wishes all around, (along with the offer to take some scones for the road) and off everyone went to begin their travels. More good memories and new friends.......

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